Cushion

1924–1926  ·  18k Solid Yellow Gold / Sterling Silver / 14k Solid White Gold / 14k Green Gold Filled / 14k White Gold Filled  ·  Manual Wind

About the Cushion

Made from 1924 through 1926, the Hamilton Cushion is part of the early geometric era of Hamilton wristwatches, when case shapes doubled as model names. It runs on one of several calibers from the 981, 983, 986, and 986A family, all 17-jewel manual wind movements, housed in a sterling silver cushion-shaped case measuring 27.6mm wide and 8.4mm thick. The Cushion sits alongside the Square in Hamilton's lineup from this period, sharing the same design philosophy of simple, architectural case forms built around honest, well-made movements.

Hamilton Cushion

Dials on surviving examples vary more than you might expect for such a short production run, with known variants including luminous designs and configurations with a subseconds register at 9 o'clock, alongside examples with no seconds at all. Sterling silver cases from this era are prone to surface wear, oxidation, and the occasional dent, so condition ranges widely depending on how the watch was stored and whether anyone attempted a polish at some point.

From the Catalog

Hamilton's 1924 catalog described the 986 movement inside these watches as featuring 17 extra fine ruby and sapphire jewels, a double roller escapement, sapphire pallets, a Breguet hairspring, and a compensation balance, with tonneau, decagon, and cushion-shaped cases available in 14K white or green gold at a list price of $62.00.

Hamilton Catalog Images

1926 Hamilton Catalog

1926

What to Look For

DialCheck the silver dial closely for hairline cracks, spotting, or amateur refinishing. The Arabic hour markers should be clean and well-defined. If the example has a subseconds register at 9, verify the track is intact and not flaking.
CrystalOriginal crystals on watches this age are rarely present and almost never original. Check the fit carefully and make sure any replacement crystal sits flush and is properly sized for the cushion case shape.
MovementConfirm which caliber is inside, as this model ran with the 981, 983, 986, or 986A. A century-old movement that has not been recently serviced will have lubricants that have long since broken down, generating friction that can cause it to run erratically or stop entirely. A service is not optional on a find like this.
CaseSterling silver cases from the 1920s often show honest wear, but look carefully for deep dings, repairs, or aggressive polishing that has softened the case edges. Case backs on watches this old can be stubborn to open and are sometimes forced, leaving damage around the back edge.
CrownCheck that the crown is period-appropriate in size and style, and that it pulls and seats cleanly. A mismatched or replacement crown is common on watches that have passed through amateur hands.

The Movement

The Cushion was fitted with one of four related calibers, the 981, 983, 986, or 986A, all 17-jewel manual wind movements built by Hamilton in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. These movements share the hallmarks Hamilton was known for in this era, including a Breguet hairspring, compensation balance, and sapphire pallets on the 986 variants. They are well-made for their age but require a careful hand during service, as parts and replacements for some components in these early calibers are not always easy to source.

Specifications
Production1924–1926
Caliber986, 986A, 987
MovementManual Wind
Jewels17
Case18k Solid Yellow Gold / Sterling Silver / 14k Solid White Gold / 14k Green GF / 14k WGF
Request a Service QuoteShop Available Watches

See an error? Let me know.

×