Viking II
1961–1963 · 10k RGP / Stainless · Manual Wind
About the Viking II
Made from 1961 through 1963, the Viking II pairs Hamilton's caliber 688 manual wind movement with a 10K yellow Rolled Gold Plate case and stainless steel back. The dial is one of the more distinctive touches in the lineup, featuring embossed gold numerals and markers over a silver finish with a swirl pattern that reads almost like a scallop shell under the right light. Sweep seconds rather than a subseconds dial keeps the face clean and uncluttered. The Viking II is part of a broader family of Viking models Hamilton offered through the early 1960s, each sharing a similar round case DNA while varying in dial treatment and finish.
The embossed dial is the thing to pay attention to on these. The raised numerals and markers hold up well over time, but the lume compound on the embossed elements can yellow or shrink, which changes how the dial reads visually. Finding one where the embossing is crisp and the swirl pattern on the silver dial hasn't been obscured by a refinish is what separates a good example from a great one. Hamilton offered this one on either a strap or bracelet at the time of sale, so period-correct bracelet examples do exist, though a matching original bracelet in decent shape is harder to come by than the watch itself.
From the Catalog
Hamilton marketed the Viking II with a 10K yellow rolled gold plate case, a stainless steel back, and an embossed luminous dial with sweep seconds. In 1961, it retailed for $69.50 on a bracelet or $59.95 on a strap, and was listed as weatherproof.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1961
1962
1963
What to Look For
| Dial | Examine the embossed numerals and markers closely. The raised elements should be sharp and even, with no chips or flaking. Check whether the lume compound has shrunk away from the embossed cavities or discolored unevenly, which is common at this age. The swirl pattern on the silver dial is a signature detail on this model, so look carefully for any signs of refinishing that would have flattened or erased that texture. |
| Crystal | The original crystal is acrylic. Check for deep scratches, crazing, or chips around the edge. A scratched crystal is easy enough to replace, but a cracked one may have allowed moisture inside, which can accelerate dial damage and cause corrosion on the movement. |
| Movement | Dried lubricant in a caliber 688 of this age will create enough friction to stop the movement or cause it to run erratically. Before assuming the movement is healthy, confirm it has been recently serviced. A watch that runs fine for ten minutes and then stops is a classic sign of dried oil, not a fundamentally broken movement. |
| Case | The case is 10K yellow rolled gold plate over a base metal, with a stainless steel back. Inspect the case under good light for wear-through on the high points, particularly the lugs. RGP cases wear through to the base metal over time, and once the plating is gone it cannot be restored without replating. The stainless back can be tricky to open, so look for evidence of tool damage around the case back edge, which can indicate a ham-fisted previous opening. |
| Crown | Pull the crown gently and confirm it seats and releases crisply through each position. On vintage Hamilton manual wind movements, the crown can detach from the stem if pulled with too much force. If the crown feels loose or spins without engaging the winding mechanism, the stem connection may already be compromised. |
The Movement
The caliber 688 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement from Hamilton's American production era. It uses a sweep seconds configuration, meaning the seconds hand runs off the center of the dial rather than a small subseconds register, which requires an additional gear train to drive that hand. It is a reliable, straightforward movement to service, though like any movement of this age it needs fresh lubrication to run properly.