Sedgman
1953–1955 · 14k Solid Yellow Gold · Manual Wind
About the Sedgman
Made from 1953 through 1955, the Sedgman is a 14K yellow gold dress watch built around Hamilton's caliber 748, an 18-jewel manual wind movement. The dial is where this model earns its character: silver with 18K gold Roman numerals and square markers, giving it a two-tone formality that suited mid-century dress wear well. A variant with all-numeral dials was also available, so not every Sedgman you encounter will look quite the same. The Sedgman is closely related to the Rodney, and collectors familiar with one will find the other immediately recognizable.
Silver dials from this era are vulnerable to moisture and age in ways that gilt dials are not, so patina and surface variation are common on surviving examples. The two-tone pairing of silver-finished and 18K gold numerals is visually specific enough that a refinished or replaced dial is usually easy to spot against an original. Finding one with a clean, unpolished case and an intact dial is the goal, and when that combination comes together, the Sedgman holds up as a genuinely handsome piece of early-fifties Hamilton craft.
From the Catalog
Hamilton listed the Sedgman at $135.00 in its catalog, describing the case as 14K yellow gold with a sterling silver dial fitted with either 18K gold Roman numerals and squares, or all 18K gold numerals, on a leather strap.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1955
What to Look For
| Dial | The silver dial should show an even, aged surface consistent with its age. Look closely at the Roman numerals and square markers, which should be 18K gold with depth and crispness. A refinished dial often looks too clean or flat by comparison, and the two-tone contrast between the silver-finished field and gold elements will look off if any work has been done to the surface. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches, crazing, or chips. A replacement crystal is not a dealbreaker, but confirm it fits the case properly with no gaps or separation at the edge. |
| Movement | The caliber 748 is known to be challenging to reassemble correctly, so ask about service history. Dried lubricants create enough friction to stop the movement, and a watch that runs intermittently or loses time significantly may be overdue for a full service. Given the fragility of the escape wheel pivot, it matters who has worked on this movement before. |
| Case | The 14K yellow gold case should show honest wear rather than aggressive polishing. Softened lugs or blurred case lines are signs of over-polishing that can reduce both collector and resale value. Case backs on watches of this era can be tricky to open, so avoid examples showing pry marks or damage around the back edge. |
| Crown | The crown should turn smoothly and set the hands without slipping. Confirm the stem engages properly and that winding feels consistent with no grinding or skipping. |
The Movement
The caliber 748 is an 18-jewel manual wind movement and one of Hamilton's more demanding calibers to work on. It requires four wheels to align simultaneously during reassembly, and the escape wheel pivot is fragile enough that any forced movement during that process can break it. In practice, this means the 748 rewards careful, patient service, and a well-serviced example runs reliably once everything is in order.