Nautilus II B
1956 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the Nautilus II B
Made only in 1956, the Nautilus II B is a manual wind dress watch built around the AS 1200, a 17-jewel Swiss-lever movement. The case is 10K yellow Rolled Gold Plate over a stainless steel back, and the dial carries embossed gold numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 with embossed gold luminous markers and a sweep seconds hand. Hamilton marketed it as waterproof and offered it on either a bracelet or strap, with the bracelet version retailing at $62.50.
Embossed dials tend to wear well compared to painted ones, so the numerals and markers on a surviving example often still look sharp, but any chips or separation in the embossing will affect both the look and the value. The silver dial finish is worth examining closely under good light for fading or spotting, which is common on 60-plus-year-old examples that weren't stored carefully. Finding one with an intact case and original crown is a reasonable expectation, but originality across all components is what separates a good example from a great one.
From the Catalog
Hamilton described the Nautilus II B as a 10K yellow rolled gold case with a stainless steel back, featuring yellow embossed numerals, luminous markers, sweep seconds, and waterproof construction. It retailed at $62.50 on a bracelet in 1956, with a strap option also available.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1956
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the embossed gold numerals and markers. Chips, separation from the dial surface, or worn lume compound are common at this age. The silver dial finish can develop spotting or uneven fading, especially if the watch was ever exposed to moisture. |
| Crystal | These would have left the factory with an acrylic crystal. Check for deep scratches or crazing. A replacement crystal is easy to source, but if originality matters to you, it's worth noting whether the current crystal looks period-correct. |
| Movement | Ask about service history. Lubricants in the AS 1200 break down over decades, and dried oil creates enough friction to stop the movement or cause it to run erratically. A movement that runs smoothly now may still need attention if it hasn't been serviced recently. |
| Case | The 10K yellow rolled gold plate will show wear through to the base metal at contact points over time, particularly on the lugs and case sides. Evaluate honestly, since heavy wear-through is difficult to reverse without replating, which changes the character of the watch. |
| Crown | Check that the crown is original and threads or pulls smoothly without slipping. A mismatched or damaged crown is a small detail that's easy to overlook and worth factoring into the overall picture. Also note that despite Hamilton's original waterproof claim, no vintage watch should be trusted near water at this age. |
The Movement
The AS 1200 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by A. Schild, a Swiss ébauche supplier whose movements appeared in a wide range of watches during this period. It winds from the crown and keeps a traditional manual rhythm, meaning you wind it daily. Reliable and straightforward, it responds well to a proper service with fresh lubricants.