Martin (1965)
1965 · 10K yellow RGP/SS · Manual Wind
About the Martin (1965)
The Martin was offered in 1965 with a white dial, round case in 10K yellow rolled gold plate with a stainless steel back, and a caliber 686 manual wind movement running 17 jewels. The dial features embossed gold numerals at all positions, giving it a quiet formality that suited the dress watch aesthetic Hamilton was cultivating in this period. A subseconds hand runs at the 6 o'clock position, a common and practical touch on Hamilton dress pieces of this era.
The embossed numeral construction is worth paying close attention to on any example you handle, these dials are notoriously difficult to refinish correctly, and a redone dial often loses the crispness of the original relief detail. Finding one with a clean, unrefined original dial in decent condition is the real win here.
From the Catalog
Hamilton described this watch as a Grade 987 with 17 jewels and an 18K applied gold numeral dial, offered in a 10K natural gold-filled case. Original pricing came in at $52.25.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1965
1966
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the embossed gold numerals under good lighting. A refinished dial will often show softened detail in the numeral relief, uneven color, or a slightly different sheen than original lacquer. Redone dials on this model are hard to get right, so original condition matters more than usual here. |
| Crystal | Check for chips, deep scratches, or crazing. A worn crystal can be replaced, but confirm the correct diameter before sourcing one, round cases from this period can vary more than you'd expect. |
| Movement | The caliber 686 at this age almost certainly benefits from a fresh service. Dried lubricants create enough friction to stop the movement outright or cause it to run erratically, and the train bridge alignment on this movement makes reassembly a task that rewards patience and experience. |
| Case | The 10K RGP case will show wear through to the stainless base metal on high-contact areas like the lugs and caseback edges. Some wear is expected and honest on a piece this age, but check that it hasn't worn through heavily on the case sides or bezel face. |
| Crown | Test the crown through its full range: winding should feel smooth and consistent, and hand-setting should be precise without slop. A stiff or gritty wind is a reliable sign the movement needs attention. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton in the United States. It winds from the crown, keeps time reliably when properly serviced, and drives the subseconds hand at 6 o'clock through a dedicated gear train. It is a straightforward movement to live with, though reassembly during service requires careful alignment of the gear train and bridge.