M 59-3
1964 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the M 59-3
Made in 1964, the M 59-3 is part of Hamilton's M Series family, a line of affordable dress watches built around solid movements and clean, uncluttered dials. The case is 10k rolled gold plate with a stainless steel back, and the movement inside is Hamilton's caliber 686, a 17-jewel manual wind. The silver dial with applied markers gives it a straightforward, dressed-up look.
Finding one in honest, unpolished condition is the goal here. The rolled gold plate case can show wear at the lugs and high contact points, which is normal and expected. The silver dial with applied markers is worth a close look, as refinished examples can be tricky to identify and a good original dial makes a real difference in long-term collector value.
From the Catalog
Hamilton's 1964 catalog listed the M 59-3 at $59.95, describing a 10k yellow rolled gold plate case with a stainless steel back and a silver dial with applied markers. It was positioned as a shock-resistant dress watch at an accessible price point within the M Series lineup.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1964
What to Look For
| Dial | Look at the silver dial carefully under good light. Applied markers can come loose or shift over time, and any sign of reluming, spotting, or uneven texture around the markers is worth noting. The dial finish on these can be difficult to reproduce correctly, so a refinished example may look almost right but not quite. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches or crazing on the crystal. Replacement crystals are generally available for round cases, but confirm the correct profile before committing. |
| Movement | The caliber 686 is a manual wind. Dried oil in a movement of this age creates enough friction to stop it entirely, so a watch that runs sluggishly or stops shouldn't be written off before a service. Wind it fully and give it several hours before drawing any conclusions about its condition. |
| Case | 10k rolled gold plate wears through at the lugs and bezel over time. Check those areas for brass showing through. Some wear is expected and honest, but heavy loss of plating changes the character of the watch. The stainless steel back should be checked for dents or deep scratches from previous case openings. |
| Crown | Make sure the crown is original and threads or snaps in correctly. A replacement crown that doesn't match the case profile is a small but noticeable detail on a clean example. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton. It's a compact, reliable caliber that rewards a proper service and keeps solid time once running cleanly. Reassembly requires some patience, particularly when aligning the wheel train and bridge, which is part of why a well-serviced example is worth seeking out.