Lord Lancaster L
1966–1969 · 14k Solid White Gold · Manual Wind
About the Lord Lancaster L
Made from 1966 through 1969, the Lord Lancaster L is a square-cased dress watch in 14K white gold, powered by Hamilton's caliber 687 manual wind movement with 17 jewels. It belongs to the Lord Lancaster family, a line of refined dress watches that Hamilton positioned at the upper end of its American-made catalog. The defining feature is the diamond-set bezel: 24 diamonds totaling one quarter carat, set into the white gold case in a way that makes the square shape feel genuinely formal without being showy.
Finding a Lord Lancaster L in good condition means paying close attention to the diamonds first, check for missing stones, replaced stones, or chips, since sourcing period-correct replacements is not straightforward. The silver dial with applied gold indices tends to hold up well when the case has kept moisture out, but any sign of case wear around the bezel is worth scrutinizing closely, both for structural reasons and because refinishing a diamond-set bezel is a job that can go wrong quickly.
From the Catalog
Hamilton's original catalog listed the Lord Lancaster L with its 17-jewel movement, 24 diamonds totaling one quarter carat, and 14K white gold case, positioning it as one of the more jewelry-forward pieces in the Lord Lancaster lineup.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1966
1968
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the applied gold indices under good light. They should sit flat and even, with no separation at the edges. The silver dial surface should be free of moisture damage or spotting, a compromised case seal often shows up here first. |
| Crystal | Check for chips, deep scratches, or crazing. A fogged or discolored crystal on a dress watch like this usually means moisture has been present, which is the first thing to investigate further. |
| Movement | The caliber 687 is a manual wind, so wind it fully and give it several hours before drawing any conclusions about timekeeping. Dried oil in movements of this age creates enough friction to stop them, so a watch that runs rough or stops is not necessarily worn out, it may just need a service. |
| Case | Examine all 24 diamonds carefully for chips, cloudiness, or missing stones. Check the bezel setting for any prongs that look bent or re-tipped. On hidden-lug cases like this one, also look at where the bracelet or strap attaches for any signs of stress or prior repair. |
| Crown | The crown on a watch originally rated waterproof-dustproof should have a functioning seal. On a vintage piece this age, treat it as not water resistant regardless. Make sure the crown seats and winds smoothly with no grinding or slipping. |
The Movement
The caliber 687 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton in the United States. It winds with a traditional crown and runs a balance wheel that beats steadily when properly serviced. These movements are well-regarded for their reliability, though like any movement approaching sixty years old, they benefit significantly from fresh oil and a thorough cleaning.