Lord Lancaster BB
1968–1969 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate · Manual Wind
About the Lord Lancaster BB
Made from 1968 through 1969, the Lord Lancaster BB is part of Hamilton's Lord Lancaster family, a line of dress watches that leaned into refined detail without overdoing it. The BB variant pairs a circular 10K white or yellow RGP case with a radial-finished silver dial and six diamonds set on the even-numbered hours, giving it a quiet formality that dressed-up without shouting. Power comes from the caliber 639, a 17-jewel manual wind movement. At an original retail price of $95, it occupied solid mid-range dress watch territory for its era.
Surviving examples tend to have their share of life on them, so the dial finish is worth careful attention. The radial finish on this dial is easy to disturb, and any cleaning attempts over the decades can dull or streak it in ways that are hard to reverse. The six diamond indices are small but structural to the watch's whole look, so check that none are missing, loose, or replaced with non-diamond substitutes.
From the Catalog
Hamilton listed the Lord Lancaster BB in 1968 at $95, describing it simply as having six diamonds, gold markers, and a white dial in a 10K white or yellow RGP case with a 17-jewel stemwound movement. The catalog language was plain, letting the diamond indices and the case material do the talking.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1968
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the radial finish under good light. Swirl marks, streaks, or dull patches suggest the dial has been touched or cleaned improperly at some point. Check all six diamond indices, confirming none are missing, cracked, or sitting unevenly, which can indicate a replacement or a loose setting. |
| Crystal | These take a flat or slightly domed acrylic crystal. Scratches on acrylic are common and can often be polished out, but deep gouges or crazing in the plastic are worth factoring into your evaluation. |
| Movement | The caliber 639 has very little clearance between its overlapping parts, and dried oil creates enough friction to bring it to a stop. Wind the watch fully and let it run for several hours before drawing any conclusions about its condition. A movement that stops within the first hour almost certainly needs a service. |
| Case | Available in both 10K white and 10K yellow RGP, so confirm which variant you have. Check the case back carefully before attempting to open it, as these can be tricky and can be damaged by inexperienced handling. Look for dings or deep scratches around the case band, particularly near the lugs. |
| Crown | Check that the crown screws in and out smoothly and that the watch winds with consistent, even resistance. A crown that slips, sticks, or feels gritty may indicate a worn or damaged stem, which is worth addressing before putting the watch into regular use. |
The Movement
The caliber 639 is a Swiss-made 17-jewel manual wind movement from Hamilton's later production era. It is a compact, straightforward movement designed for thin dress watch cases, but that compactness comes with tight tolerances and very little room for error during service. Properly cleaned and lubricated, it runs reliably, but it does not tolerate dried oil well and benefits from regular servicing.