Lord Lancaster B
1963–1969 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate · Manual Wind
About the Lord Lancaster B
Made from 1963 through 1969, the Lord Lancaster B was part of Hamilton's Lord Lancaster family, a line built around dressed-up round cases with refined dial treatments. This version ran on the caliber 686, a 17-jewel manual wind movement, housed in a 10K white Rolled Gold Plate case. The defining feature is the dial: six diamonds set directly on a silver radial-finish surface, with applied gold markers filling out the hour positions.
Six real diamonds on a sub-$90 watch was a genuine value proposition in 1963, and that's still part of what makes finding one interesting. The radial silver dial is the first thing to scrutinize closely, refinishing a textured surface like this correctly is genuinely difficult, so originality matters more here than on a simpler dial. Check the diamonds carefully under magnification; loose or replaced stones are not uncommon after sixty-plus years.
From the Catalog
Hamilton described the Lord Lancaster B in 1963 as a conventional 17-jewel movement in a 10K white rolled gold plate case with six diamonds on the dial, paired with a black suede strap, at a retail price of $89.50.
Hamilton Catalog Images
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What to Look For
| Dial | The radial silver finish is easy to damage and very hard to replicate correctly. Look for consistent texture across the entire surface, no spotting or discoloration, and confirm all six diamonds are present, secure, and matching in appearance. A refinished or touched-up dial will usually show subtle inconsistencies in the finish pattern near the edges or around the stone settings. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches, chips at the edges, or crazing. A worn crystal on a watch this dressy affects the whole presentation. Replacement crystals are available, but confirm the fit is correct before buying. |
| Movement | The caliber 686 is a manual wind, so wind it fully and give it several hours before drawing conclusions. Dried oil creates enough friction to stop this movement or cause it to run significantly slow, even if the watch otherwise looks clean. A watch that stops after an hour or two almost certainly needs a service. |
| Case | This is a 10K rolled gold plate case, not solid gold, so wear through the plating is possible on high-contact areas like the lugs and caseback edges. Look carefully at the lug tips and the back rim for brass showing through. Case backs can be stubborn to open without the right tools, and amateur attempts often leave marks. |
| Crown | Check that the crown threads on smoothly and winds without grinding or slipping. A worn crown or damaged stem affects both winding and setting, and stem replacements for older Hamilton calibers can require sourcing. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement produced by Hamilton in the United States. It's a conventional design of its era, reliable when properly serviced, with a subseconds dial at 6 o'clock driven off the fourth wheel. Reassembly requires some patience, particularly aligning the gear train under the train bridge, which makes finding an already-serviced example worth a small premium.