Lexington
1941 · Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the Lexington
Made only in 1941, the Lexington was pitched directly at military use, Hamilton's catalog copy from that year calls it out explicitly, describing it as a new 17-jewel watch styled in steel for military purposes. The caliber 980 powers it, a 17-jewel manual-wind movement housed in a round stainless steel case with a black dial and painted white numerals. The Lexington shares company with the Endicott and Sentinel from the same period, all part of Hamilton's wartime and pre-war push into purpose-built stainless steel watches.
Black dials from this era are prone to fading, flaking, or showing moisture damage, and the Lexington is no exception, a crisp original black dial with clean white numerals is the thing to hunt for. The single production year means surviving examples are not plentiful, and condition varies widely depending on how hard the watch was actually used.
From the Catalog
Hamilton's 1940 catalog described the Lexington as a sturdy stainless steel watch with a black dial and white numerals, explicitly marketed for military use at $42.50, a meaningful price for the time, reflecting both the 17-jewel movement and the stainless case.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1941
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the black dial for flaking, fading, or ghosting around the numerals. The painted white numerals can chip or wear with age, and any prior cleaning attempt can cause them to peel away or smear. A dial that has been refinished will look too uniform and the numerals too crisp, compare the overall aging of the case and dial together. |
| Crystal | The crystal should be clear and free of deep scratches. Replacements are common and generally fine, but a heavily scratched crystal that has not yet been replaced may signal the watch has been knocked around. |
| Movement | The caliber 980 has a known tendency for the escape wheel jewel to work loose over time. If the watch is running erratically or stopping for no obvious reason, that jewel is the first place a watchmaker will look. Ask whether the movement has been serviced, and if not, budget for a full service before relying on the watch. |
| Case | Stainless steel wears well, but check the lugs for heavy thinning from polishing or decades of bracelet wear. The case back can be stubborn to open without the right tools, and a case back that has been pried improperly will show damage around the edge. |
| Crown | The crown should thread or snap in smoothly and wind with even resistance. A loose or wobbly crown may indicate a worn stem, which affects winding and hand-setting reliability. |
The Movement
The caliber 980 is a 17-jewel manual-wind movement built to Hamilton's solid mid-range standard of the era. It winds from the crown, sets hands in the same position, and keeps time through a traditional lever escapement. Seventeen jewels at this price point in 1941 was genuine value, and the 980 has a reasonable reputation for durability when properly maintained.