Hartman
1953–1954 · 18k Solid Yellow Gold / 14k Solid Yellow Gold · Manual Wind
About the Hartman
At the heart of the Hartman is the caliber 748, one of Hamilton's more demanding movements to service, housed in a solid gold case that came in either 18K or 14K yellow gold. Made from 1953 through 1954, the Hartman sits in Hamilton's dress watch tradition of the early 1950s, a period when the company was producing some of its most refined solid gold pieces for the American market. The dial is silver with applied 18K gold markers or numerals, and the movement runs a sweep seconds hand rather than a subseconds dial, giving the dial a clean, uninterrupted look. Two references were offered at each gold grade, one with markers and one with numerals, making four distinct versions in total.
Sterling silver dials from this era are prone to developing a warm patina or, in less fortunate cases, tarnish or spotting from moisture exposure over the decades. Finding one with an honest, even dial surface and intact applied gold markers or numerals is the real challenge, since any corrosion or separation of applied indices on a sterling silver dial tends to compound over time. The solid gold case means what you're looking at is genuinely precious metal throughout, not Gold Filled or plated, so condition of the case itself tends to hold up better than the dial.
From the Catalog
Hamilton listed the Hartman in 1953 with a sterling silver dial carrying 18K gold markers or numerals, available in 18K yellow gold at $225 or 14K yellow gold at $175, with a leather strap included.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1953
What to Look For
| Dial | The silver dial is the most vulnerable part of this watch. Look closely for tarnishing, moisture spotting, or uneven patina. Check that the applied 18K gold markers or numerals are fully seated with no separation at the edges. Any waviness or gap between a marker and the dial surface is a sign of prior moisture intrusion. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches or chips. A replacement crystal is a straightforward fix, but confirm the profile fits the case correctly, since an ill-fitting crystal can allow moisture to reach the silver dial. |
| Movement | Ask about service history. The caliber 748 is genuinely difficult to reassemble correctly, and dried oil creates enough friction to stop the movement entirely. A watch that runs and stops, or that won't fully wind, likely needs a full service. Given the complexity of this movement, confirm any prior service was done by someone familiar with it. |
| Case | Confirm the gold karat, either 18K or 14K, since both versions were produced. Look at the lugs for any thinning from polishing, and check the case back for pry marks or damage from previous openings. Solid gold case backs can be tricky to open without marring the metal. |
| Crown | The crown should wind smoothly with no grinding or slipping and should set the hands with positive feel. A worn or replaced crown on a solid gold case is common after 70 years, so check that it matches the case finishing and seats flush. |
The Movement
The caliber 748 is an 18-jewel manual wind movement with sweep seconds, which means the gearing is more complex than a standard manual wind, requiring an additional gear train to drive the seconds hand at the center of the dial. It's a capable and refined movement, but it has a reputation among watchmakers for being genuinely difficult to reassemble correctly. Four gear wheels need to align precisely, and the escape wheel pivot is fragile enough that any misapplied force during service can break it.