Gregory (1963)
1963–1964 · 10K yellow RGP/SS · Manual Wind
About the Gregory (1963)
Made from 1963 through 1964, the Gregory pairs Hamilton's caliber 686 manual wind movement with a round 10K yellow rolled gold plate case with a stainless steel back. The dial is silver with embossed gold numerals at the even positions only, 2 through 12, and embossed gold markers filling the remaining positions, giving it a clean but substantive look. A subseconds register at 6 o'clock completes the layout. The Gregory is a straightforward dress watch from Hamilton's American production era, no gimmicks, just solid construction in an accessible price tier.
The embossed dial is one of the more interesting things about this watch, and also one of the reasons to look carefully before buying. That three-dimensional texture is notoriously difficult to refinish correctly, so a dialed-in original is worth considerably more than one that's been touched. White rolled gold plate versions also existed, so if you come across one that doesn't match the typical yellow case, it's not necessarily wrong.
From the Catalog
Hamilton offered the Gregory in both 10K yellow and white rolled gold plate with a stainless steel back, priced at $49.95 on bracelet and $39.95 on strap in 1963.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1963
1964
What to Look For
| Dial | Inspect the embossed gold numerals and markers closely. This dial is very difficult to refinish correctly, so any signs of retouching, uneven texture, or inconsistent depth in the embossing are red flags. Original unrestored dials in clean condition are what you want. |
| Crystal | Check for chips, deep scratches, or crazing. A fresh crystal is an inexpensive fix, but confirm the replacement is the correct diameter so the fit is tight and centered. |
| Movement | The caliber 686 is a capable movement, but dried lubricants are a genuine concern on any example this old. Enough friction from degraded oil can stop the watch entirely. Ask whether it has been recently serviced, and if not, budget for a full service. |
| Case | Examine the rolled gold plate for wear-through, particularly on the lugs and case sides. Some brassing is common at this age, but heavy exposure of the base metal underneath affects both appearance and value. The stainless steel back should be free of deep gouges or pry marks. |
| Crown | Make sure the crown threads smoothly and the watch winds and sets without slipping or grinding. A sticky or damaged crown is worth addressing before purchase, since a correct replacement can be harder to source than it looks. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement built in the United States during Hamilton's American production years. It winds from the crown, runs at a traditional frequency, and is a reliable daily performer when properly serviced. Reassembly requires careful alignment of the train bridge, so this is a movement that rewards a watchmaker who knows it well.