Gary (1962)
1962–1967 · 10K white RGP/SS,10K yellow RGP/SS · Manual Wind
About the Gary (1962)
Made from 1962 through 1967, the Gary is a cushion-cased manual wind Hamilton offered in both 10K yellow RGP/stainless steel and 10K white RGP/stainless steel. It runs on the caliber 686, a 17-jewel manual wind movement that Hamilton used across a number of its dress models during this period. The two-tone silver dial carries applied gold numerals at 3, 9, and 12 with gold dot markers filling the remaining positions, and a subseconds register at the traditional 6 o'clock position.
Finding one in honest original condition takes some patience. The two-tone silver dial is particularly vulnerable to refinishing attempts that flatten its original character, so look carefully at the dial surface before anything else. Both the yellow and white RGP versions turn up with reasonable regularity, and original bracelet examples command a modest premium over strap configurations.
From the Catalog
Hamilton offered the Gary with an 18K gold numeral and dot dial on a two-tone sterling silver surface, available on a leather strap for $64.00 or on a bracelet for $71.50, with the natural gold-filled case listed as a standard feature of the model.
Hamilton Catalog Images
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What to Look For
| Dial | The two-tone silver dial is the first thing to scrutinize. Refinished examples often lose the depth and tonal contrast of the original surface, and the applied gold markers can be disturbed or replaced during a poor restoration. Look for even aging across the dial, no lifting or re-glued markers, and crisp numeral edges at 3, 9, and 12. |
| Crystal | The Gary would have left the factory with an acrylic crystal. Check for deep scratches or crazing, which are common after six-plus decades. A quality replacement crystal is inexpensive, but confirm the replacement is properly fitted with no gaps at the bezel. |
| Movement | The caliber 686 at this age almost certainly needs a full service. Dried oil creates enough friction to stop the movement outright, so a watch that runs but runs poorly is not a good sign. Ask when it was last serviced, and factor a service into your budget if that question goes unanswered. |
| Case | Check the case back carefully. These RGP and stainless cases can be tricky to open, and backs are sometimes forced, leaving tool marks on the edge. Examine the lugs for thinning, which can occur from aggressive polishing over the years. |
| Crown | Confirm the crown is original and that it winds and sets smoothly without slipping. A replacement crown may not match the original profile, and a crown that sits loosely can let dust and moisture reach the movement. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement that Hamilton produced for its dress watch lineup. It winds from the crown, keeps a conventional gear-train layout, and drives a subseconds hand from the small register at 6 o'clock. Reassembly requires careful alignment of the wheel train and bridge, which is one reason a skilled watchmaker makes a real difference with this caliber.