Gardner
1959–1961 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the Gardner
The Gardner was produced from 1959 through 1961, a clean square-cased dress watch running Hamilton's caliber 673, a 17-jewel manual wind movement. The case is 10K yellow Rolled Gold Plate with a stainless steel back, and the dial carries embossed gold numerals and markers at the 2, 4, 8, 10, and 12 positions, with a subseconds register at 6 o'clock. It belongs to Hamilton's broader lineup of square-cased dress watches from the late 1950s and early 1960s, a period when the company was producing some of its most refined American-made designs.
Dial variation is one of the more interesting things about the Gardner. Known examples show at least three distinct dial treatments: triangular hour markers at the odd-numbered positions, simple embossed bar markers, and a textured dial with concentric rings. The concentric-ring version in particular is difficult to refinish well, so finding one with an original, unmolested dial in good shape matters more than usual here. The square case with hidden lugs gives the Gardner a tidy, understated look that holds up well, but RGP cases from this era show wear at the lug edges and high points, so check those areas carefully before committing.
From the Catalog
Hamilton offered the Gardner in 1959 with a yellow embossed numeral and marker dial in a 10K rolled gold plate case, priced at $45.00 on a bracelet or $39.50 on a strap.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1959
1960
1961
What to Look For
| Dial | Three dial variants are known, and they are not interchangeable in terms of collector interest or refinishing risk. The textured concentric-ring dial is particularly hard to restore correctly, so originality matters here. Look for even color across the silver surface, no flaking or bubbling around the embossed numerals, and no signs of a repaint, which often shows as a slightly thick or matte texture that sits on top of rather than into the dial surface. |
| Crystal | The square case takes a flat crystal, and replacements are generally available. Minor scratches are normal and expected on a watch this age, but a cracked or chipped crystal should be replaced before the watch is worn. Make sure the crystal fits flush and without gaps around the edges. |
| Movement | Ask about service history. The caliber 673 will stop when its oil dries out, so a watch that has been sitting is likely to need a full service. One specific vulnerability worth knowing: the set lever spring, sometimes called the set bridge, is prone to breaking on this caliber. A watchmaker inspecting the movement should check that part specifically, as a broken set lever spring means the watch cannot be set to time. |
| Case | The 10K rolled gold plate case will show wear over time, particularly along the lug edges and any raised surfaces. Light wear is expected and honest on a watch this age, but check for areas where the gold layer has worn through to the base metal. The stainless steel back can be tricky to open without the right tools, so look for any evidence of case back damage from improper opening attempts. |
| Crown | The crown on a Gardner that has been sitting unused is often the first place moisture finds its way in. Check that the crown winds smoothly without slipping or grinding, and that it sets the hands without excessive resistance. Any roughness in the winding feel can point to a worn stem or a movement that needs attention. |
The Movement
The caliber 673 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton in the United States. It winds and sets reliably, keeps good time when properly serviced, and has a relatively simple layout that a competent watchmaker can work through without much trouble. The main thing to know is that dried oil creates enough friction to stop it outright, so a watch that has been sitting unserviced for years will often need a full service before it runs well again.