Gallant B
1956 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the Gallant B
Made only in 1956, the Gallant B is a clean, round-cased dress watch from Hamilton's mid-decade American lineup, running on the caliber 686, a 17-jewel manual wind movement. The case is 10K yellow Rolled Gold Plate with a stainless steel back, and the dial uses applied 18K gold markers with no Arabic numerals, just a pure hour-marker layout against a silver dial. A version of this watch was also sold under the Illinois brand name, listed as the Illinois Debonair G, making it one of several Hamilton models from this period that crossed over to Hamilton's sister brand.
Finding a Gallant B in good shape today means paying close attention to the markers, which are applied 18K gold and can come loose or develop patina under the crystal over decades. The silver dial on this model has a finish that is notoriously difficult to restore correctly, so a refinished example will never look quite like an original, and that affects value considerably. The subdial and overall dial texture make professional refinishing a real challenge, which is actually good motivation to seek out an unpolished, untouched survivor.
From the Catalog
Hamilton described the Gallant B as a 10K yellow rolled gold case with a stainless steel back and 18K gold markers, available on a bracelet for $55.00 or on a strap for $49.50 in 1956, which placed it in the accessible middle of Hamilton's dress watch range for that year.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1956
What to Look For
| Dial | Check each applied gold marker carefully. Separated, shifted, or missing markers are common on watches this age and are expensive to address properly. The silver dial finish is very difficult to restore convincingly, so look for original, unrefined dials even if they show minor aging. |
| Crystal | This watch originally wore an acrylic crystal. Deep scratches can be polished out, but cracks or chips mean replacement. A fresh crystal is an inexpensive fix, but make sure any replacement is correctly fitted to avoid moisture getting in. |
| Movement | Ask about service history. Dried oil in the caliber 686 creates enough friction to stop the movement entirely, and a watch that has been sitting for years without service should be treated as needing a full clean and oil before regular wear. |
| Case | The rolled gold plate on the case can wear through to the base metal at the lugs and high-contact points over time. Inspect those areas closely. The stainless steel back is more durable, but case backs on vintage Hamiltons can be tricky to open without the right tools, so check that it has not been forced. |
| Crown | The crown should pull out with a distinct feel and wind smoothly without slipping or grinding. A worn crown or damaged stem will affect winding and setting, and correct replacements for this era of Hamilton can take some hunting to source. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made in the United States, part of Hamilton's reliable mid-grade lineup from the 1950s. It winds and sets conventionally, and when properly serviced it keeps solid time. Reassembly of the 686 requires care during the wheel train and bridge alignment, which is one reason finding a competent watchmaker familiar with vintage American movements matters for this watch.