First Mate
1960–1967 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the First Mate
Made from 1960 through 1967, the First Mate runs on Hamilton's caliber 686, a 17-jewel manual wind movement housed in a 10K yellow Rolled Gold Plate case with a stainless steel back. The dial is gold-colored with embossed yellow markers and no numerals, giving it a clean, understated look that suited mid-century casual dress well. Hamilton offered it from the start with either a strap or a bracelet, pricing the bracelet version a bit higher. The First Mate is part of Hamilton's broader lineup of accessible dress watches from this period, sharing shelf space with similarly priced models aimed at everyday wear rather than special occasions.
The embossed markers on the gold dial are one of the more distinctive things about this watch, and also one of the trickier things to preserve. Refinishing that textured surface correctly is genuinely difficult, so a dial with honest wear is often preferable to one that has been redone poorly. The subseconds register at the dial's lower portion is worth inspecting closely, as the texture there is easy to lose in any refinishing attempt.
From the Catalog
Hamilton described the First Mate in its early catalogs as having a 10K yellow rolled gold plate case, a stainless steel back, and yellow embossed markers on a gold-colored dial, with a weatherproof rating. At introduction in 1960, the strap version retailed for $49.95 and the bracelet version for $59.95, with the bracelet price holding into the 1963 catalog.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1960
1961
1962
1963
1964
1965
1966
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at those embossed yellow markers. They should have a raised, textured quality to them. If the surface looks flat or the markers appear printed or decal-like, the dial may have been refinished, and not necessarily well. A correctly original dial will show that slight relief in the embossing even under mild wear. |
| Crystal | Check for chips, deep scratches, or crazing. Replacement crystals for round cases this size are generally available, but confirm the fit before assuming any crystal will do. |
| Movement | Wind the watch fully before evaluating it. The caliber 686 is a manual wind, and dried lubricants are a real concern in any movement this age. Even a few drops of dried oil can create enough friction to stop the watch entirely. A watch that runs strong after a full wind but fades after a few hours is telling you it needs a service. |
| Case | The 10K rolled gold plate surface can wear through to the base metal at the lugs and high-contact points. Check those areas in good light. Some wear is normal and honest on a watch this age, but deep wear-through significantly affects value. The case back is stainless steel and can be tricky to open without the right tools, so don't force it. |
| Crown | Pull the crown gently through its positions and confirm it winds smoothly and sets the hands without slipping. A worn or replaced crown on a watch like this is easy to overlook but worth catching before purchase. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton during this period. It is a straightforward hand-wound caliber without any complication beyond the subseconds, reliable when properly serviced but known among watchmakers for being finicky during reassembly, particularly when aligning the train bridge and wheel set. Keep that in mind if you are buying an unserviced example.