Dexter (1959)
1959–1960 · 10K yellow RGP/SS · Manual Wind
About the Dexter (1959)
Made from 1959 through 1960, the Dexter is a rectangular manual wind Hamilton running the caliber 673 with 17 jewels. The case is 10K yellow rolled gold plate with a stainless steel back, a combination Hamilton used frequently at this price point to keep costs reasonable without sacrificing the look of a gold watch. The silver dial carries embossed gold numerals and dot markers at all positions except 6 o'clock, where a subseconds register takes their place.
Embossed dials are notoriously difficult to refinish well, so the condition of the original dial matters more than usual here. A worn or re-dialed example will look noticeably off compared to one with an untouched silver dial where the raised numerals still have their original crispness. Finding a Dexter with clean dial surface and sharp embossing intact is the real win.
From the Catalog
Hamilton's original catalog described the Dexter with a 14K natural gold-filled case and called out the 18K gold numerals and dots on a silver dial specifically, which tells you the dial details were considered a selling point. The watch carried a retail price of $60.50.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1959
1960
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the embossed gold numerals and dot markers. Refinishing this type of dial is difficult to do correctly, and a poorly redone dial loses the crispness of the original raised detail. Check for even color across the silver surface, no pitting or spotting, and that the numerals haven't been flattened or filled by a careless refinish. |
| Crystal | The original crystal is acrylic. Light scratches can be polished out, but deep gouges or a yellowed, hazy crystal should be replaced. A fresh crystal is inexpensive and makes a real difference in how the dial reads. |
| Movement | The caliber 673 is a solid manual wind movement, but dried oil is a genuine concern at this age. Enough friction from old lubricants can stop it entirely, even if the mainspring is fine. Ask when it was last serviced, and budget for a full service if that answer is vague or unknown. |
| Case | The 10K rolled gold plate case can show wear through to the base metal at high-contact areas like the lugs and case sides. Check those spots carefully. The stainless steel case back can be tricky to open without the right tools, so if the back looks like it has been pried at, inspect the edge for damage. |
| Crown | Test the crown through both winding and hand-setting. The set lever spring in the caliber 673 is prone to breaking, and a crown that feels loose or won't hold a set position is a warning sign worth taking seriously before purchase. |
The Movement
The caliber 673 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton in the United States. It winds smoothly and keeps good time when properly serviced, and its straightforward layout makes it a reasonable movement to work on for an experienced watchmaker. Like all vintage movements at this age, the lubricants will have dried or degraded, and a full service is the right starting point for any example that hasn't been through one recently.