Cushion Plain
1927โ1932 ยท Gold Filled
About the Cushion Plain
Produced from 1927 through 1932, the Cushion Plain belongs to Hamilton's geometric era, when wristwatches were named directly for their case shapes. The case is Gold Filled, measuring 27.1mm square with a cushion profile, and ran with a 17-jewel movement from Hamilton's 979, 987, 987A, 987E, or 987F caliber family. It was offered in green or white Gold Filled options, sitting alongside closely related models like the Cushion Engraved, the Square, and the Barrel in the same period lineup.
The Gold Filled case is where most of the wear story gets told on these. The bezel corners around the crystal and the top and bottom edges of the case are the first places the gold layer thins out, so examining those spots closely under good light tells you a lot about how this one was treated over the past nine decades. Finding one with a dial that still shows clean applied gilt numerals and an intact subseconds register at 6 o'clock is a genuinely satisfying thing.
From the Catalog
Hamilton's 1929 catalog listed the Cushion Plain in 14K gold filled at a consumer price of $50.00, with the solid 14K gold version stepping up to $75.00. Luminous dials were offered at no extra charge, and buyers could choose between green or white gold finish.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1929
1930
1931
1932
What to Look For
| Dial | Look for the applied gilt Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9 to be secure and free of separation from the dial surface. Check the subseconds register at 6 o'clock for hairline cracks radiating outward, which are common on dials this age. Any flaking or moisture damage around the edges should be noted. |
| Crystal | The crystal should sit flat and even in the bezel. On cushion-shaped cases from this period, the crystal seating area can develop small chips or cracks at the corners if the case has taken any knocks. |
| Movement | Confirm which caliber is inside, as this model ran with the 979, 987, 987A, 987E, or 987F. The balance pivot and hairspring on these calibers are particularly vulnerable to damage during adjustment, so a movement that has been worked on by someone inexperienced may have a compromised balance assembly. Ask about service history if possible. |
| Case | Inspect the bezel corners near the crystal and the top and bottom edges of the case carefully. These are the first spots where the gold fill wears through on cushion-shaped cases from this era. Bright light at an angle will reveal any brass showing through. |
| Crown | Check that the crown winds smoothly and sets without slipping. On cases this age, a worn or replaced crown is common. Verify it matches the case finish and pulls out to the setting position cleanly. |
The Movement
The Cushion Plain ran with 17-jewel movements from Hamilton's 979 and 987 family, including variants 987A, 987E, and 987F. These are small American-made manual-wind calibers built to fit the compact rectangular and cushion cases Hamilton was producing during the late 1920s and early 1930s. They are capable movements when properly serviced, though the balance components require a careful hand during any adjustment work.