Curtiss
1953–1954 · 14k Solid Yellow Gold · Manual Wind
About the Curtiss
Made from 1953 through 1954 and appearing in the 1954 catalog, the Curtiss is a rectangular 14K yellow gold dress watch powered by Hamilton's caliber 754, a 19-jewel manual wind movement. The dial is silver with 18K gold numerals or a combination of numerals and squares markers, giving buyers a choice between two distinct looks at the same price point of $135. The Curtiss belongs to a group of Hamilton rectangular dress watches from the early 1950s that includes the Piping Rock, Coronado, and Prescott, all sharing a similar sensibility of restrained elegance in a solid gold case.
Finding a clean Curtiss means paying close attention to the silver dial, which is prone to spotting and discoloration and spotting over the decades. The 18K gold applied numerals and squares markers are a real selling point when they're in good shape, but check for any that may have shifted or separated at the edges. Both dial variants, the numeral-only and the numeral-and-squares, appear occasionally on the market, and either makes for a genuinely attractive small rectangular gold watch.
From the Catalog
Hamilton marketed the Curtiss as a 19-jewel, 14K natural gold watch with 18K gold numerals or numerals and squares on a sterling silver dial, offered on a leather strap. The 1954 catalog listed both dial variants at $135.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1954
What to Look For
| Dial | Silver dials spotting or discoloration. Look carefully for spotting, water staining, or dark patches around the perimeter. The applied 18K gold numerals and square markers should sit flush and show no separation from the dial surface. The pearled track and textured band around the dial edge are subtle details worth examining under good light. |
| Crystal | The Curtiss takes a flat rectangular crystal. Check for chips at the corners, which are common on rectangular cases, and deep scratches that can't be polished out. A replacement crystal should fit flush with no gaps. |
| Movement | Ask about service history. White alloy mainsprings used in the caliber 754 can become set over time or fail outright, and dried oil creates enough friction to stop the movement even when it appears to run. A watch that starts easily and holds timing through the power reserve is a good sign, but a recent full service is the real assurance. |
| Case | The 14K yellow gold case should show crisp lines on the lugs and case body. Check the edges for excessive wear and look at the caseback for signs of forced opening, which can leave tool marks. Gold cases are often polished repeatedly over the years, so original finishing on the surfaces is worth noting. |
| Crown | Confirm the crown pulls out smoothly through its positions and that the stem engages the setting without slipping. A loose or stripped crown on a small rectangular movement can mean a more involved repair. |
The Movement
The caliber 754 is a 12/0-size, 19-jewel manual wind movement that Hamilton used across a number of its dress watch models in the 1950s. It winds and sets cleanly when properly serviced and keeps solid time in a well-maintained example. The movement is not especially difficult to work on, but the small parts require patience, and the white alloy mainspring is a component worth replacing during any service.