Contour
1938–1939 · 10k Yellow Gold Filled · Manual Wind
About the Contour
The Contour was made from 1938 through 1939 in a 10K yellow Gold Filled case, powered by Hamilton's caliber 980 manual wind movement with 17 jewels. What set it apart from other rectangular watches of the era was its flexible lug design, which Hamilton engineered specifically to let the watch conform to the wrist whether worn on the side, top, or underside. The name wasn't just marketing: the watch was genuinely designed to follow the contour of the wrist rather than sit rigid and perpendicular to it.
Finding a Contour in good condition means paying close attention to those flexible lugs, since the hinge points are the first place to show wear or fatigue after eight decades of use. The dial carries 18K applied gold numerals on a silver dial, and original examples in honest shape are satisfying to come across given the short production window.
From the Catalog
Hamilton described the Contour in 1938 as a watch perfected for the side of the wrist, emphasizing that its flexible lugs allowed it to fit naturally on the top or underside as well, unlike other side-wrist designs of the time. It was offered in natural yellow only with an 18K applied gold numeral dial, priced at $52.50.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1938
1939
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the applied gold numerals. These are 18K gold and should sit cleanly with no separation from the dial, discoloration around the bases, or evidence of a redial. A refinished dial will often lose the crisp edge definition on applied numerals and may show uneven surface texture. |
| Crystal | Confirm the crystal fits correctly and sits flush. An ill-fitting replacement can put pressure on the dial or indicate someone has been inside the case with less-than-careful hands. |
| Movement | Dried oil is a real concern on any caliber 980 at this age. A watch that ticks weakly, stops when laid flat, or runs erratically almost certainly needs a full service. Budget for one regardless, and ask whether the mainspring has been replaced, as original mainsprings on movements this old are frequently fatigued or set. |
| Case | Examine the flexible lugs carefully at the pivot points. These should articulate smoothly without wobble or cracking. Also check the case back: these can be difficult to open cleanly, and signs of prying around the edge usually mean someone forced it. Look for dings or deep scratches on the case sides and back. |
| Crown | The crown should wind the mainspring with even resistance and set the hands cleanly without slipping. A loose or sloppy crown on a watch this old often points to a worn or damaged stem. |
The Movement
The caliber 980 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement that Hamilton used across a range of dress watches in the late 1930s. It winds from the crown, keeps a conventional lever escapement, and is a straightforward movement to service when parts are available. At its age, dried lubricants are the most common culprit when one isn't running well.