Coburn
1958–1961 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the Coburn
Made from 1958 through 1961, the Coburn is a clean, round-cased dress watch powered by Hamilton's caliber 673, a 17-jewel manual wind movement. The case is 10K yellow Rolled Gold Plate with a stainless steel back, a combination Hamilton used across a range of its mid-range dress models during this period. What gives the Coburn its character is the embossed dial, which came in both black and white versions, with embossed gold numerals and markers that give the surface a subtle tactile quality you don't see on printed dials. The Coburn is part of Hamilton's broader lineup of round-cased dress watches from the late 1950s, a category covered in more depth in the relevant family guide.
Condition on the dial is the first thing to sort out with a Coburn. The embossed texture is difficult to replicate well, so refinished dials rarely match the crispness of an original, and a poor refinish is usually obvious once you know what to look for. Black and white dial versions both surface with some regularity, and finding one with an honest, unrestored dial in good shape is the real goal.
From the Catalog
Hamilton marketed the Coburn in 1958 with straightforward copy, noting the 10K yellow rolled gold plate case, stainless steel back, and embossed dial as the defining features. At introduction it retailed for $49.50 on bracelet or $42.50 on strap, positioning it as an accessible but genuine dress option in the Hamilton lineup.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1958
1959
1960
What to Look For
| Dial | Inspect the embossed surface carefully. The raised numerals and markers should look crisp and even, not flattened or muddy. Refinished embossed dials are common and easy to spot, as the texture loses definition and the numerals can look slightly sunken or coated over. Any signs of lacquer pooling or loss of detail around the indices is a red flag. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches or crazing. Replacement crystals for round cases are straightforward to source, but verify the fit is correct and that the crystal sits flush without separation at the edges. |
| Movement | Ask about service history. In a caliber 673 that has been sitting unserviced, dried oil creates enough friction to stop the movement entirely, and a watch that winds and ticks in the case may still have poor amplitude once it is out. A recently serviced example will run noticeably better. Also be aware that the set lever spring on the 673 is prone to breaking, so check that hand-setting feels normal with no slipping or grinding. |
| Case | Look at the case back, which is stainless steel. The back can be tricky to open, and prying attempts leave marks around the lip. Check for scratches or gouges from past opening attempts. On the gold plate case body, look at wear on the lugs and high points, as RGP thins with age and polishing. |
| Crown | The crown should wind smoothly and set without slipping. Any roughness winding or looseness setting could point to worn keyless works or the set lever spring issue mentioned above. |
The Movement
The caliber 673 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement produced by Hamilton during the late 1950s and into the 1960s. It is a reliable everyday movement, not particularly thin or complicated, just a well-made manual wind that rewards a proper service. At full wind, a healthy 673 will run consistently for a full day and beyond.