Automatic K-200 cld
1954–1956 · 14K yellow · Automatic
About the Automatic K-200 cld
Made from 1954 through 1956, the Automatic K-200 cld is one of Hamilton's more upscale automatic offerings from that era, powered not by a Hamilton movement but by an Eterna caliber 1248UC. That's worth pausing on: Hamilton sourced this 17-jewel automatic from Eterna, a respected Swiss maker, which speaks to the K-200's positioning as a premium piece. It sits in a 14K yellow gold case with swept lugs and a clean round profile, finished with applied gold markers and sweep seconds. The cld suffix indicated a sealed case design — the crystal was set into the bezel on a gasket, the bezel itself seated against the case with a second gasket, and the crown used a two-piece stem construction with its own gasket at the stem tube. These weren't waterproof watches by any technical measure — Hamilton's waterproof push came later in the decade — but that sealing kept moisture and dirt out of the movement in a way standard cases couldn't claim. The K-200 family occupied Hamilton's higher price tier in the mid-1950s, and this cased variant was no exception.
Finding one in honest condition means checking the case carefully, since 14K gold wears gracefully but the lugs on swept-lug cases tend to thin with repeated polishing over the decades. The applied gold markers on the silver dial can lift or shift, so close inspection under good light is worthwhile. At $175 in 1954 this was a serious purchase, and examples that have been left alone tend to reward that patience.
From the Catalog
Hamilton's catalog described the K-200 as a 17-jewel automatic in a 14K natural gold case with 18K gold numerals, sweep seconds, and claims of water resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetic protection. It retailed for $175.00 in 1954, positioning it firmly at the premium end of Hamilton's automatic lineup that year.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1954
1955
What to Look For
| Dial | Look closely at the applied gold markers under magnification or good raking light. Any that have shifted position, lifted at one edge, or show adhesive residue underneath are worth noting. The silver dial itself should be consistent in color without spotting, haze, or water staining near the edges. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches, chips at the edge, or any crazing that would distort the dial view. A replacement crystal is fine as long as it fits the case properly and doesn't sit proud of the bezel. |
| Movement | Dried oil is a real concern in any stored watch of this era, and the Eterna 1248UC is no different. A watch that runs unevenly, stops after a few hours on the wrist, or needs a shake to restart is telling you it needs a service before anything else. |
| Case | Inspect the lug tips carefully. The swept lug design is elegant but those tips are the first place metal disappears with polishing. Thin or pitted lugs affect both value and structural integrity. The caseback, being a gold case, may have been opened by jewelers over the years, so check the edge for tool marks or damage. |
| Crown | Make sure the crown screws in or seats properly and that it isn't a replacement from a different watch. An ill-fitting crown affects water resistance, and while no vintage watch should be trusted near water regardless of its original rating, a damaged crown can also let dust and humidity into the case. |
The Movement
The Eterna caliber 1248UC is a Swiss-made 17-jewel automatic that Hamilton sourced for certain higher-tier models in this period. Eterna was known for quality construction and this movement uses a bidirectional winding rotor to keep the mainspring topped up through normal wear. It's a capable caliber, but like any movement that has been sitting for years, it benefits enormously from a fresh service with modern lubricants before being worn regularly.