Andrew
1968–1969 · 10k Rolled Gold Plate / Stainless Steel · Manual Wind
About the Andrew
Made from 1968 through 1969, the Andrew is a cushion-cased manual wind from Hamilton's later American-production period, powered by the caliber 686 with 17 jewels. The cushion case is yellow Gold Filled over stainless steel, giving it a warm, solid presence on the wrist without the weight of solid gold. Numerals and markers are embossed gold, positioned at 3, 6, and 12, with a subseconds register at 6 o'clock rounding out a clean, legible dial layout. It belongs to a group of moderately priced Hamilton dress watches from this era aimed at buyers who wanted genuine quality without paying for a flagship model.
Finding a clean Andrew means paying close attention to that white dial, because the embossed gold numerals and markers can show wear, oxidation, or uneven patina that's hard to reverse without a full redial. The cushion case shape holds up well to light wear, but any dents or dings in the curved surfaces are worth examining closely since they're more noticeable on this profile than on a simple round case.
From the Catalog
Hamilton positioned the Andrew in its 1968 lineup as a precision timekeeper at a moderate price, emphasizing 17-jewel quality and smart styling for the value-conscious buyer. It was offered at $55 on bracelet or $45 on strap, fitting comfortably into Hamilton's accessible dress watch tier for that year.
Hamilton Catalog Images
1968
What to Look For
| Dial | The embossed gold numerals and markers are delicate and difficult to restore correctly if damaged. Look for separation from the dial surface, chips, or uneven oxidation. The white dial finish can yellow or spot with age, and refinishing this style of dial without losing the embossed detail is genuinely hard to do well. Condition here matters more than it might on a simpler printed dial. |
| Crystal | Check for deep scratches or crazing. A worn crystal is replaceable, but always confirm the fit is correct for the cushion case shape. |
| Movement | The caliber 686 is a manual wind and needs to be wound regularly. Dried oil is a real concern on a movement this age, and enough friction buildup from dried lubricants can stop the watch entirely or cause it to run erratically. If the watch runs slow, fast, or stops without being fully wound down, assume it needs a service before drawing any conclusions about the movement's condition. |
| Case | The yellow gold-filled finish over stainless steel can wear through at high-contact points like the lugs and case back edges. Some wear is expected on a watch this age, but check that it's even and not cutting through to bare steel in patches. The cushion shape means any dents sit right in the visual center of the case, so inspect the flanks carefully. |
| Crown | The crown should turn smoothly through winding and advance the hands cleanly when pulled. A loose or slipping crown on a watch this age often points to a worn stem or a set lever that needs attention. Also note that while this watch was originally marketed as weatherproof, that rating no longer applies to a vintage example, so keep it away from water. |
The Movement
The caliber 686 is a 17-jewel manual wind movement made by Hamilton in the United States. It requires daily winding and is a straightforward, honest workhorse movement, not flashy, but well-built for its price tier. The 686 is serviceable by any competent watchmaker familiar with American-production Hamilton movements, though reassembly requires patience, particularly when aligning the gear train and train bridge.